What is a “utility special?” It would be a bike you could commute on. It would be a bike that could do errands. It would be a bike that could haul stuff.
A utility special is not (usually) a “pretty” bike. Rather, they are machines for getting stuff done. These are the pickup trucks of the bike world. They need to be sturdy, tough, reliable, and above all ready.
What makes a utility or commuter bike? The answer can be as different as the people who use them. I have a friend who has used a high end, all carbon time trial bike as a regular commuter. That’s a bit out of the ordinary.
Usually the factors to be considered are distance of the ride, terrain, and load. Shorter rides, with light loads can be done on almost any kind of bike. That svelte and sexy brakeless fixie might be a really neat bike, but if there are a lot of big hills on the route, something with a wide gear range and good brakes would be more practical.
For longer trips, with heavier loads, a “light tourist” might just be the ticket. That is a road bike, with a more relaxed riding position, a bit heavier frame, and lots of eyelets and braze-ons, to accommodate fenders, racks, and other accessories. When the route is over rough pavement, such as city streets, heavier wheels, with wider tires make a lot of sense.
We are being pretty general here. Each rider is different, and has different needs. I know one character who has managed to cobble together a 15 mile commuting route, that is all dirt. It includes some gravel roads, a couple of long sections of power line right of way, and one stretch through a neighbor’s woodlot. Here, a hard tail mountain bike is the obvious choice.
My own regular choice is a road bike. I like the efficiency and the variable positioning. Sometimes I’m equipped with racks and panniers. Sometimes I use a messenger bag. I’ve been known to haul a trailer.
Fenders: Are fenders necessary? That depends. They become mighty nice when the weather turns wet. On the other hand, having fenders mounted means having to put up with the extra weight, and the additional air drag whether it’s raining or not.
Lights: If the commute or utility ride takes place in the daylight, this isn’t a concern. But if a rider wishes to use the bike during the darker times of the year, then lights become paramount.
Drive Train: Reliability is a major key. Modern drivelines are pretty reliable, but if they are subjected to a lot of use, and to a lot of weather, they are going to take more maintenance. Possibly the most maintenance free would be something equipped with a Shimano Nexus internally geared hug, or even the Rohloff type hub. These things are bomb proof, and require very little attention. On the other hand, they are a bit heavier, and a good bit more spendy.
Repair and maintenance: Who does the work? If one is going to do regular commuting, the maintenance requirements increase. It makes a lot of sense to learn how to do routine, and some non-routine maintenance. Of course, going deeper into self maintaining, implies an investment in tools, supplies, and training. Just how mechanically adept are you? Do you have the time to do the work?
The “beater” approach: I’ve seen a lot of folks start out to attempt utility riding by buying a second hand bike, or by dragging an older, less used bike into service. This approach can be economical, but it can also be a recipe for failure. That used bike (particularly the internet variety) may just come with its own serious reliability problems. Worse, it may not fit well. The old “second bike” can have some of the same issues. I would recommend this approach to a more seasoned utility rider. I you are starting out, get professional help, and pick the right tool for the job.
Maybe the best approach is to just go out and ride the bike you have, and use it to get to and from places you need to be. You’ll quickly develop a list of needs and wants. That should help you decide just exactly what is best for your commute/utility riding. It bears thinking about.
No comments:
Post a Comment