Monday, February 28, 2011

Looking Ahead:


Okay.  Yes, I cancelled out on the last Dawn Patrol.  I could see yesterday’s weather coming, and frankly, the prospect of getting up stupid early, to ride in the cold and dark, wasn’t appealing.  Instead, I made application for, and a down payment on this year’s “cyclist’s tan.”  It was a good day for it.

Now, for the future.

Georgia Rides to the Capitol:  I’ve had some comments and questions about this one.  It’s usual for that to occur.  The most common one is a concern about one’s ability to actually accomplish the ride.  So here’s the scoop.
Distance (one way):  Approximately 35 miles.
Start Time:  0800
Arrival time at the Capitol:  1100
Departure Time from the Capitol:  1230 (approx)
Return time @ PTC:  1600 (approx)

So it’s about a 70 mile round trip.  But folks seem to be intimidated by that.  So don’t focus on the miles.  Instead, can you do a consistent 12 mph average for three hours?  If so, you can do this ride!  Don’t think of it as one 70 mile ride.  Instead, it’s two rides of about 3 hours each, at a very moderate pace.

Pack a lunch!  If I read the information from Georgia Bikes! Correctly, there will not be a hot lunch at the Capitol this year.  That’s okay, but be prepared.  Pack a sandwich, or whatever pleases you, for lunch.  There will be a “century style” rest stop, with some ride munchies, water, and sports beverages.

Seasonal Night Rides:
The Vernal Equinox (beginning of Spring) should be the first one of these that would make any sense to do.  The thing is, that would, reasonably, fall on the night of Monday, March 20.  But if we did that, the next day’s ride to the Capitol just might be a bit much.  So, let’s do something meaningful.  Let’s do the Ride to the Capitol instead.

We’ll pick up the Seasonal Night Rides with the Mid-Spring one.  This year’s first true seasonal night ride will be on Monday 2 May.  Mark your calendars.

Audax Tune Up:
The first of this year’s tune ups is this coming Sunday.  We’ll be posting more info on that one on Wednesday.  In the meantime, you might consider this.  If you can handle the Audax 45 Mile Tune Up, then you are most surely capable of doing the Ride to the Capitol.



Friday, February 25, 2011

Friday Follies ~~ The “Great Race”


There was a time when I was a serious young racer.  That time passed.  It was followed by a time when I struggled to stay on the bike, and to recover from a serious overweight problem.  That time too passed.  I’ve often stated that one should enter formal competition from time to time.  There are things that competition teaches, which can be learned nowhere else.

I was in my late forties when I decided to take my own advice.  I was flush with having won the weight battle, and recovered a decent measure of fitness.  I could pretty well hold my own with some of the stronger, younger riders.  So I decided to enter a race.

I had a choice for this first event.  I could purchase a one-day license and declare myself a Category 5 (beginner), or I could enter the Masters race.  I figured I was a lot younger than most of the Masters, so I chose to do that.  After all, even though I’d been away for a long time, I was hardly a beginner.  At least that was my thinking.  Bear in mind, my previous racing experience was more than twenty years in my past.

I had, so I thought, many advantages.  The race was to take place on roads I knew and rode regularly.  I’d have the “home court advantage.”  I would be one of the youngest entrants in that particular field.  “Sure,” I thought, “I don’t really expect to win the thing, but I should be able to hold my own.”

For those who aren’t familiar, allow me to pause a moment and paint a picture of a typical men’s Masters racer.  This man is in his middle or late middle age.  He is usually fairly affluent.  He has a racing background.  A serious racing background.  Typically, this man is a former professional racer, with sufficient time to train, practice, and race frequently.  He was once an extremely powerful rider, and he is not far from that now.

I should have been more wary.  I got my first clue on race day.  I was nearby when the started called the Category 3 racers to the line for instructions.  She addressed the young Cat 3s, saying,  “Listen up!  We will be starting the men’s Masters ten minutes after we start you.  This is dumb, but that’s the way it is.  When they catch you, and they will, please pull aside and give them the road.  They will pass you, and you may continue to race.  You won’t see them again.”

Yikes!  That meant that this official fully expected the Masters (the old men) to make up a ten minute start on these young guys!  Ten minutes!  Were kids really that slow these days?  I looked at the Cat 3 crowd.  No, they didn’t look like they were in poor shape, or likely to be slow.  They looked, in fact, about like Cat 3s had looked way back when I was one.  Way back when I was struggling to stay with the pack in Cat 3!  “Oh well, we’ll see what we shall see,” I thought.

That call went for the Masters to come to the line.  I moved up, astride my mid-level bike.  I looked around.  These guys looked fit, and a lot leaner than I was.  Most of them were aboard some very nice, high-end equipment.

The race started.  At first it wasn’t at all bad.  We moved out easily, and sorted ourselves into a nice orderly pack.  After a couple of miles at a moderate pace, the speed picked up a bit.  Still no problems.  I was focused on staying in mid-pack, and that was working well.  We came to a long rolling descent, and the speed picked up a bit more.  The pack was “working” the descent, not jus coasting.

At the end of that long down, there was a funny right turn, up-hill, left turn combination.  This was about five miles into the race.  Suddenly the whole pack “hit the gas.”  The pace increased dramatically, and I was struggling to hang on to the back of the pack.  This, just five miles into the first lap.  And this was to be a two lap race with each lap a bit more than 26 miles.

I hung on grimly, up that (relatively gentle) uphill, gritting my teeth and waiting for the flat that I knew was ahead. I figured I could recoup a bit on the flat.  I figured wrong.

As the road leveled, the pack surged ahead, at speeds I’d only ever reached occasionally on level ground.  I was dropped.

I have never been a quitter.  Somewhere in the back of my head, a voice said,  “You are now out for a nice Sunday ride.  Relax.  But no.  I pushed as hard as I could.  I was hoping I could at least be one of those who catch up to the Cat 3s.  I kept telling myself,  “They can’t be that far ahead.  They’re going too fast.  I’ll reel them in.”  And so I persisted. 

I was hurting, and alone.  I saw the occasional course marshal at turns.  They all smiled and waved at me.  Most of them shouted encouraging things, like,  “They’re just ahead!”  Or, you’re only two minutes back!”  Right.

I don’t remember going through the start-finish line the first time.  I’d gone to the “World of Pain,” and was taking up permanent residency there.  I was just focused on finding that Cat 3 pack and pushing through them.  It never happened.

As I came back into the small town the second time, I knew I’d been dropped and trounced, basically “broomed out.”  But I was, at least for my own self respect, going to finish.  I was rolling down the street, approaching the last turn, less than a half mile from the finish when I became aware of something.  There was a large pack of racers coming up behind me!

I looked back at them.  Wholey owned and operated!  It was the Masters race!  I was about to be lapped!

No way in the world was I going to let that happen!

I was hurting, but it wasn’t far.  I leaned over and summoned all I had to push the bike faster.  I made the turn at the ragged edge of traction, and the pack was close behind.  They were gaining on me fast now, as they began their own final surge.  I put every last bit I had into the cranks, and went blasting over the line, just a half-bike length ahead of the leader of that rapidly overtaking mob…  And then the fun began.

You see, I had a race number on.  One that matched the race I’d just led over the finish line.  None of the officials at the finish knew I’d been dropped.  Of course there was an official in the support truck who had tracked any drops and withdraws.  But he wasn’t there yet.

I was unaware of the developing shouting match back at the line.  I was whupped, and silently congratulating myself for just finishing the whole rotten deal, and for getting out of the way of the pack.

Imagine my surprise.  I rolled to a stop.  I stood and recovered my breath, and then remounted and turned around to ride back.  (After all, I had to go that way to get back to my truck.)  As I approached the line, I was suddenly surrounded by a bunch of people, most of them yelling.  Yelling at me.

As soon as I figured out what was going on, I stopped the shouting pretty quickly.  “No,”  I said.  I wasn’t even close to first.  I’d been dropped and was just trying to get out of the way and keep from getting lapped.”

There were some disgusted looks on some faces, and satisfied ones on others.  Most folks relaxed, and several other arguments took place.  These last were the usual end-of-race wrangles between the legitimate finishers.  One official did come up to me and ask, quietly,  “If you were dropped that bad, what were you doing on the course?”

“Finishing,”  I said.  I figured, if he didn’t understand that, there was no use explaining it to him. 

Thursday, February 24, 2011

Thursday Thoughts: Time to Ride for Riding


It’s time to think about the annual RIDE TO THE CAPITOL.

I’ve struggled with this one for the past couple of years.  I am not in favor of increased spending.  The state is in budget trouble.  On the other hand, moneys are going to be spent on the highways.  And legislation will be passed.  We should have a voice in these things.

We need to let our state legislators know that we are out here, and that we care, and watch, and vote.  I think it’s a good message to send.  Perhaps a few of the folks under the “Dome” will look outside on 22 March, and see a large bunch of cyclists.  Imagine the question,  “Who are these people, and how did they get here?”  And the answer,  “They rode their bicycles!  From all over the place!

We need to see “buzz laws,” passed.  We need to have police understand that we are vehicles too.  We are users of the roads, voters, and taxpayers.  We deserve consideration when roads are upgraded, built, or designed.

We’ll be going.  It would be good if there were a lot of us going.  Our contingent will be leaving from City Hall, in Peachtree City.  Departure time is 08:00, and that’s on Tuesday, 22 March.  Please go to this link and register for the ride.

An additional note.  As I read it, there will not be a lunch served at the capitol this year.  There will be a “rest stop” with beverages, water, and munchies.  Plan accordingly.  (Me?  I’m packing a lunch!)

Watch this space for more info and news on this one.

Wednesday, February 23, 2011

Winter Maintenance: Bearing Check


There are four essential bearings on your bicycle.  They are the front wheel bearing, the rear wheel bearing, the Bottom Bracket, and the headset.  Problems with the wheel bearings or headset bearing can lead to a rather nasty end to a ride.  A problem with the Bottom Bracket bearings can lead to bad shifting, loud noises, and possibly to the bike failing to proceed.  Here’s how to check each of these.

Headset Bearings:
Turn the handles bars from side to side.  Does the fork move smoothly as you do this?  No binds, dragging, or clicking?  Good.

Now place the bike on the ground.  Lock the front brake firmly and push the bike forward and backward gently.  Do you feel a click or clunk?  If so, things need to be investigated.  This could just be an indication that the headset is out of adjustment, or worn.  It could also mean something else.  Either way, get it to a shop.

Wheel Bearings:
With the bike resting on its wheels, grasp the top of each wheel in turn.  Pull gently from side to side.  If there is a clunk or tick as you pull the wheel, that’s it.  Wheel bearings are worn or in need of adjustment.

{This is a good time to do a cursory check of wheel true, and tire wear.  Lift the rear wheel off of the ground and give it a spin forward As you do this, sight between the brake surface of the rim and the brake pad.  If you see side to side motion, it’s an indication that truing is needed.  Go over the tire carefully looking for worn spots, tears, and punctures.  Repeat this procedure with the front wheel.}

The next step requires removing the wheels from the bicycle.  After you have done this, pick one wheel up and turn the axel.  Does it move smoothly and freely?  If so good.  If it is tight, difficult to turn, or feels gritty, that bearing needs attention.  Repeat the process with the other wheel.

Bottom Bracket (crank) Bearings:
First grasp both crank arms near the pedals.  Now tug from side to side.  If there is a rocking motion possible, the bottom bracket bearing is in need of attention or replacement.  Note:  If the crank arms can move independently of each other, Stop!  Do not ride the bike.  Take it to a shop and seek professional assistance.  Continuing to ride the bike in this condition can lead to damaged cranks, and really bad falls and injuries.

If your crank has passed the tests so far, do the following with care and caution.
Remove the rear wheel.  Now lift the chain away from the crank.  With the chain out of contact with the crank, give the crank a spin.  Does it move freely and smoothly?  If so good.  If not, attention is needed.

Bearing Lubrication and Adjustment:  In a future post I may cover the process of refreshing and adjustment of a “loose ball” hub.  For now, it is best to leave this work to professionals.

One last bit of advice:  Bearings need to be lubricated.  Please consider how long it’s been since your wheel bearings, crankset, and headset have been serviced.  If it’s been more than a year, likely you should take your bike in for service.  Yes, it’s likely they will keep your bike for a few days.  But the time and expense are well worth it.  Do consider, that unattended hub could cost you the whole wheel.  Besides, a smooth well lubed and well adjusted bike is a joy to ride.

Tuesday, February 22, 2011

Mountain Biking 101: Shifting


Beginners!  You are in too high a gear!  (Likely this applies to a fair number of intermediate, and some advanced riders too!)

Before we begin:  Some terminology is important here.  There is always some confusion about what is meant by the terms “high gear,” and “low gear,” and “up shift,” and “down shift.”

A high gear is one that requires more pedal effort.  It allows you to go faster, but it is harder to turn.

A low gear is on that requires less pedal effort.  It isn’t as fast, but you can turn the pedals easier.

An up shift is moving from a lower gear to a higher gear.  (Easy to Hard.)

A down shift is moving from a higher gear to a lower gear.  (Hard to Easy.)

The confusion usually starts when folks look at the size of the gears on the bike.  Please ignore the physical size of the gears, and get the feel for what your shifters do.  Learn which way makes it harder, and which way makes it easier.  Do this before you get into the woods!

You have two shifters on a mountain bike.  The one on the left is for the front or the chain rings.  Most mountain bikes have three chainrings.   Some have only two.  You will not shift the left hand (or front) as often as the right hand.  The shifter on the right side of the bar is for the rear or the cassette.  You will shift this one a lot.

Before you go near the woods, ride your bike!  Ride it a good bit, and practice with your shifters.  Work until your hand knows which way to go to make it easier or harder.  Get so you can shift either shifter smoothly and quickly.

A note on shifting technique:  The chain will not move from gear to gear unless you are pedaling the bike.  More importantly, the chain does not move easily if you are making a lot of power.  If you are putting a lot of force on the pedals, your shift will not be smooth, and it may damage your bike.  The ideal is to be pedaling smoothly, but lightly as you shift.

It’s best to practice shifting, and practice it a lot.  But start off doing it on pavement.  Get your learning and technique sorted out before you go into the woods.

This brings us to an important piece of advice.  SHIFT BEFORE YOU NEED TO!!

Got all that?  Good!

Now, as we were saying at the beginning, you are in too high a gear.  Before you go into the trail, shift the front and the back into the lowest gear on the bike.  You can always shift UP to make it harder, but it is often very difficult to shift DOWN to make it easier.

Most obstacles are more readily handled in a lower gear.  But if you wait, you may find it too difficult to make the shift.  So start off low, and stay in relatively lower gears.  As you progress in the sport, you will learn to read the trail, and gain the experience to know when to select tougher gears.

NOTE:  Most beginner stalls occur going uphill in too hard a gear.  Be kind to yourself and your bike.  Go low and stay low.


Today’s Term(s): 
Clean or Cleaning ~ To “clean” an obstacle or trail challenge is to ride smoothly (and successfully!) through it.  A clean rider is one who seems to float through the landscape, rhythmically negotiating each obstacle with grace and a certain style.
The Zone ~ a state of mind experienced while riding. You don't think, you just do. A truly mystical experience that can't be fully explained, but when you get there you'll know it and strive to reach it again.

This series, running every Tuesday, is intended to help those who are new to mountain bike riding.  By no means is it an exhaustive treatment, but it is our fond hope that it will help you, the beginner, to begin to enjoy riding your bike off road.

Future Topics:
Preparations
Dressing for it
Standing and staying loose
Trail Care & Maintenance
Hydration
Track Stand
Bunny Hop
Wheelie
“Cleaning” the mud

Monday, February 21, 2011

A Ride Report and Some Upcoming Stuff


Novice Mountain Bike Ride:

Yesterday was the second time we’ve done this.  Our purpose is to help folks get started in mountain biking.

Before I get into the write up on the day, I should like to mention a few things.  The first is one known by almost all teachers.  Every time I set out to teach something, I end up learning a lot.  We from Bicycles Unlimited are learning how to make this a quality event.  We have some knowledge of mountain bike riding, but speaking for myself, this particular format for teaching is new.

I’ve taken plenty of beginners into the woods before.  However, in the past there has always been a personal connection between me and the new rider.  I’ve known them previously.  I’ve had some chance to prepare them.  In this instance, we’re saying,  “Come out and let us help you get started.”  We have no idea who will show up, what their skill level is, what their background is, or what their desire and expectation level is.  It’s a different kind of experience, but it’s good, and getting better.

All that said…  Yesterday was a good day.  We didn’t have quite the huge turn out as our first ride.  That was a good thing.  We were able to work with new folks on a more individual basis.  We stopped at several obstacles and did our best to demonstrate methods for clearing them.  We were able to let each individual practice on each section.  In all, very good weather and a smaller group worked well.

In the future:  We have just one more of these weekend, Winter rides.  That one will be on Sunday 20 March.  In April, we’ll be moving to an evening format.  We’ll be doing these rides twice monthly, on the 2nd and 4th Tuesdays of the month.  We’ll start that on 12 April.  Come on out and join us!

BTW:  Remember, Dawn Patrol this coming Sunday morning.  See the South Side Cycling Club Calendar for details.

Friday, February 18, 2011

Friday Follies ~~ That eating thing


Program Notes:
Remember the Novice Mountain Bike Ride!  This coming Sunday.  That’s 20 February, at 2:00.  At the Peachtree City Baseball Soccer Complex Trail Head.  Skills to be covered:  Drop offs and track stands.

Now back to our regular programming.

The “fat gene” runs in my family.  I was a short fat kid.  Puberty plus athletics plus riding my bike (a lot) took care of that.  Between recreational riding, organized athletics, and just plain being busy, I stayed at a pretty good weight.  There was just one problem; I like to eat.  My activity level allowed me to eat pretty much anything I wanted to, in almost any quantity.  So I arrived at age 30, with habits.

I mention that age, because it is significant in my life.  I underwent a major career change.  I went inside and sat down.  The job was fascinating, absorbing, challenging, demanding, and completely sedentary.  I was mostly inactive, but I was still eating like a demon.  I blew up like a balloon.  I hit 260 pounds before I managed to stop gaining.  It was hard to come back from that.

Now days, I tend to go through an annual cycle.  During the late Fall, and Winter my activity level is lower, so I gain a bit of weight.  This falls off as the activity level increases in the Spring.  By mid-Summer, eating becomes an actual chore, and I am struggling to keep from losing more weight.  That annual cycle is limited to about a then pound fluctuation, and I intend to keep it there.

Cyclists, runners, and swimmers eat.  We have to.  Exercise calories must be replaced.

Several years ago, in the middle of a particularly long and strenuous ride, I fell behind the calorie curve.  My friend Ed and I were pushing to make a scheduled stop.  It was close to ten P.M. when we made it.  We were cold, wet, and hungry!

The waitress came to take our order.  I said,  “Let’s see.  A short stack of pancakes, three eggs scrambled, sausage, biscuits, home fries, a slice of your apple pie with ice cream, a large glass of milk, and coffee.”  She repeated that back to me and then turned to go.

“Hey!  Wait a minute.  What about me?  Ed said.  The poor lady was a bit flustered.  She thought I’d ordered for both of us.

After a surprisingly short wait the food came.  As the nice lady was setting it down, she stopped and said,  “Oh Hon!  I’m sorry.  You wanted the home fries, and I got you grits.  I’ll take it back and fix it.”  She started to take the plate away.

I grabbed it and said,  “Oh no you don’t!  I’ll eat it!  Just bring another small plate with the fries.”

I’d almost finished before she got back with my potatoes.  She was not believing me.  “I just don’t see where you could put all that!”  she said.  Non-cyclists don’t believe it.  More, they simply cannot conceive of the amount of calories it takes to keep a working tourist out on the road.


Wednesday, February 16, 2011

Winter Projects ~ Re-String:

Re-string means to replace all of the cables on the bike.

Before you start:  We’re addressing only road bikes here.  (Mountain bikes, while similar, can present different problems and complexities.)

Shifter types:  At this writing, there are three common road shifters in use; Campagnolo, Shimano, and Sram.  There are some variations within each of these manufacturers.  Before tackling a re-string, it is best to familiarize yourself with the correct procedure for your specific shifter.

NOTE:  Technical data is not readily available for all shifter types and models.  If you can not find the correct information for your specific product, you would be wise to seek assistance from a mechanic at your local shop.  Hint:  Be prepared to pay for this instruction.  It will be worth the small investment.

Supplies (typical):
2 each shifter cables
2 each brake cables
Approximately six feet of shifter cable housing
Approximately six feet of brake cable housing
6 to 14 shifter housing ferrules
6 to 10 brake cable ferrules
2 shift cable end tips
2 brake cable end tips

Tools:
Cable cutter
Housing cutter
Metric Allen wrenches in 4mm, 5mm, and 6mm sizes.
            Note:  In some applications a 10mm combination wrench and/or a 9mm combination wrench may also be necessary.
“Third Hand” cable puller
File or (optional but really nice to have) bench grinder.



Now, here’s a good question:  Did your bike ever work well with the old cables and housings?  If the answer is “yes,” skip the next part, and go down to “Cutting and sizing.”  If the answer is no, then you need to do some investigation, and possibly some careful measuring.

First, invert the bicycle, and look under the bottom bracket.  You see there a thing called a “cable bridge” or cable guide.  Is it filthy and partially clogged with spooge?  Or is it possibly worn?  If dirty, clean it, if worn, go get a replacement to have ready for when you take the old cables off.

Now look at your cable routing.  Are any of the housings stretched way tight?  (Too short.)  Or are housings possibly looped way out and too long?  This is your opportunity to correct either of these situations.

Cutting and sizing:

NOTE:  If you haven’t done this before, it’s a good idea to replace the cables one at a time.  That way there is less chance of confusing the routing of each cable.

Take the appropriate housing (brake or gear) and lay it alongside the existing one on the bike.  This measures the housing.  Now cut to length.

For brake housings:  After cutting, inspect the ends of the housing.  Likely there is a curl of the metal jacket bent inward.  Use a file or bench grinder to grind the end flat, smooth, and free of intruding curls of metal.  Then open the hole with a sharp pointed tool, such as a scratch awl.

For gear housing:  The supporting metal jackets in gear housing run along the length of the housing, so there will not be an intruding curl of metal.  However, it is not unusual for the cutting process to close the inner liner off.  Again, use a sharp pointed tool to open the inner liner.

Once the housings have been cut to size, go to the next step.

Removing the old cables:  Cut the ends off of the old cables.  Loosen the pinch bolts at the derailler or brake.  Go ahead and cut the cable in as many places as is convenient.  Remove the old bar tape (if necessary.  See LINK for this process.)  Remove the old cable and housing.

Install the new cable in the control.  Follow the manufacturer’s procedure for this.

Install the ferrules on the Ends of the housing.  Notice, not all housing ends require ferrules.  Let the old housings be your guide in this.

Thread the cable through the front most housing.

Move the housing into the appropriate receptacle in the control.

Insert the housing into the appropriate cable stop on the frame.

Shifter cables:

  • Front Derailler cable:  In almost all applications there will be only one housing, going between the control and a cable stop on the frame.  Then the control wire runs freely, down to the left hand channel in the “bridge” below the bottom bracket.  As the wire exits the rear of the bridge, it will go up and be secured under the pinch bolt of the front derailer:
  • Rear Derailer cable: In a typical application, the cable will go through a housing between the control and the cable stop on the frame.  Then it runs freely along the frame to the right hand channel of the “bridge.”  Usually, after the cable exits the rear of the bridge, it will travel back along the underside of the right chain stay.  Then it is threaded into a housing section.  This section is fitted into a cable stop, forward of the rear derailler.  The rearward end of the housing fits into an adjuster barrel on the rear derailer.  The cable goes through this adjuster barrel, and then under the pinch bolt.

Brake Cables:
  • Front Brake:  This cable is ordinarily attached to the left brake lever.  Follow the manufacturer’s procedure for inserting the cable into the brake lever.  Run the cable through the housing.  The housing will stop in the receptacle in the front brake lever.  Then the housing will be secured against he handlebar.  Finally, the cable is threaded through the adjuster barrel or the front brake, and then the housing is inserted into the adjuster barrel.  The cable is secured under the front brake pinch bolt.
  • Rear Brake:  This cable is ordinarily attached to the right brake lever.  As with the front brake, insert the cable into the lever by following the manufacturer’s recommended procedure.  Then thread the cable into the housing, and the housing into the receptacle in the control lever.  The housing will run along the handlebar, and then to a cable stop on the frame.  The cable then runs feely along the frame, until it is threaded into a rear housing section.  This housing is then fitted into the rear cable stop, on the frame.  The cable, emerging from the rear housing section, is fed through the adjuster barrel on the rear brake, and then the housing is inserted into the adjuster barrel. Finally the cable is secured under the breare brake pinch bolt.


Okay!  It’s strung.  Next week; Adjusting the brakes and deraill

Tuesday, February 15, 2011

Mountain Biking 101: Reading the trail

Learn to scan the trail.

The principle here is that nothing on the trail should ever be a surprise.  If you can’t see ahead, then slow down!

Even at the beginning of a new mountain biker’s progress (maybe especially then) the ability to look at the trail, and read it is possibly the most useful skill in the toolbox.

New riders tend to fixate on the next obstacle.  As they do, they neglect the one after that, and the ones farther ahead.

Here’s the problem.  Any trail is, basically, a series of obstacles, or “problems.”  Each obstacle requires some kind of adjustment to the rider’s position, speed, or control.  New riders tend to see only the very next obstacle.  As a result, the one after that tends to take them by surprise.

The Scan:  As soon as you enter the trail, begin your scan. 
  • Look as far ahead as you can see. 
  • Note each obstacle between you and the limit of your vision, but don’t linger on any one. 
  • Scroll your vision scan back toward you.  You are most interested in the next two obstacles you will encounter. 
  • Note the distance between the nearest obstacle, and the one after it. 
  • Plan your moves for the nearest obstacle. 
  • Take a quick look at the one after it. 
  • Clear the next obstacle, and repeat the process.


As you get better at this scanning process an interesting thing starts to happen.  You find that your subconscious mind is working on the problems of the future obstacles.  By the time you come to them, you already have them more than half solved.

Example:  An internal dialog.
I’m looking forward.  There’s a drop off.  Then a tight turn with roots, then a step up.  Look at the drop off.  Weight back.  Let it go.  Good!  Made it!  Look ahead.  Tight turn with roots.  Step up. Narrow gate between the trees.  Look at the turn.  Move to the outside…    …And so on.

Just the act of scanning forward and back starts the process of figuring out the approach to each challenge.  Try it on your next ride.

One more Caution:  As you are looking at obstacles, focus on the solution, and not on the problem!  There is an old mountain bike adage.  “See the rock.  Look at the rock.  Hit the rock!  See the tree.  Look at the tree.  Hit the tree.  You are going to go where you are looking.  If you don’t want to go there, don’t look there!”  This is absolutely true.  Your bike will go where you are looking.  So note the obstacle, and then look for the solution.  Once you’ve found the solution, look only at that.  Focus on the path through the problem, not on the obstruction.



Today’s Term(s): 
Shred or Shredding ~ A particularly aggressive riding style, esp including a lot of skidding and sliding.  While fast and exciting, “Shredding” is destructive of trail surfaces and of the land they are located in.

Dab ~ Putting a foot down to stabilize oneself while in motion.
Spuds (SPD pedals) ~ One of the more common of off-road type “clipless pedals.”  SPD™ is a Trademarked pedal from Shimano.  The acronym stands for Shimano Pedaling Dynamics, which basically means it’s a clipless pedal made by Shimano.

This series, running every Tuesday, is intended to help those who are new to mountain bike riding.  By no means is it an exhaustive treatment, but it is our fond hope that it will help you, the beginner, to begin to enjoy riding your bike off road.

Future Topics:
Trail Care & Maintenance
Preparations
Shifting
Dressing for it
Standing and staying loose
Hydration
Track Stand
Bunny Hop
Wheelie
“Cleaning” the mud

Monday, February 14, 2011

Now What?

It’s warmer.  For the first time in living memory (or at least in a very long time) the overnight low is above the freezing point.  It has seemed that the morning thermometer was stuck on 27 degrees F.  Every morning…  27 degrees!  That’s more appropriate to southern Ohio.  This is north Georgia!

The week ahead looks promising too.  Highs in the 60s, and overnight lows well above 40, with plenty of sunshine to go around.

But it’s puzzling.  We expect a “weather break” in late February.  This is it.  But it’s early.  We’ve been reading the output from the various climatology types.  The consensus is,  “We don’t know!”  Long range climate forecasts currently read like waffle recipes.  “It will remain warmer, unless it cools,” and we expect a dry Spring, due to a weakening La Nina, unless it is wetter.

Our best advice is, don’t be hasty.  Keep the Winter gear out for a while yet.  This is early.

Why the fascination with weather?  This is, after all, a cycling blog.  Yes, and cycling takes place outside.  Some folks make decisions about whether they will ride or not based solely on the forecast.  Others try to figure out what gear and equipment will be needed.  Right now, those re tough calls.  But we’re up to the challenge, aren’t we?

In the near future:
This coming weekend is the next of our Novice Mountain Bike Rides.  We will be meeting at the Peachtree City Baseball Soccer Complex, on GA-74.  Ride time is at 2:00 P.M. on Sunday 20 February.  As of this writing, the forecast looks very promising, but do remember, rain cancels this one.

Try to get some saddle time in.  The first of the Audax 45 Mile Tune Ups is right around the corner.  (Check the Tour Calendar) to the left.

Have a good week all.  Lots coming up.

Friday, February 11, 2011

Friday Follies ~~ Is it time yet?


It’s Winter out.  No surprise or big news there.  But there is something going on.

I spend a fair amount of time outside.  Usually that time is spent on a bike, or doing yard work.  But it’s outside.  More, I like to look around me, to see what the world is doing.

Right now, the world is doing!  It’s not obvious.  It’s subtle.  It’s almost below the surface of perception, but it’s happening.  Nature has been sleeping, but she’s starting to get restless again.  It’s almost time.

Evidence:
The days are getting noticeably longer.
“My” vireo returned and started her morning songs last week.
I saw one (half starved) robin on a morning ride this week.
Some of the early bloomers (notably the forsythia) are just starting to show.
Buds are swelling.

If you go outside, and just stand in the woods, you will feel it.  There’s a building tension.  Like standing in an empty theater an hour before curtain time.  There’s a buzz, just below the surface.

Spring is on the way toward us, moving north at a rate of 133 miles per day.  She ain’t here yet, but brother, she is coming!

Spring brings silliness.  People are more sensitive to the climate and the weather than most realize.  That accounts for a lot of silly behavior, and “Spring Fever.”  Just about the time that Spring really starts to make her presence known, people start to act a bit goofy.  I am aware of this, and I do try to maintain rationality, but I’m inclined to some giddiness and lapses of sanity at this time.

When I was a kid, my family referred to it as my ”Silly Season.”  Every Spring, sometimes more than once, I would do something wild and get graunched in the process.  At a time when most families were attended to by one doctor, a General Practitioner, my family always knew a surgeon, an orthopedic specialist, and were on a first name basis with the staff at the local Emergency Room.

I learned a lot from those early whacko traumas, but nothing more important than this.   Think of your life as a video, with you as the director.  You are filming it and watching all at the same time.  Picture this; your personal “editor” cuts a piece out of the film.  You were doing something, but suddenly, and without transition, the viewpoint changes.  Suddenly you see sky, surrounded by heads.  Friends, this is a clear indication that you have done something stupid.  You are lying on the ground, and they are all looking down at you.  You fell down and went BOOM.

I pulled a lot of these stunts as a kid and young man.  I’ve learned to exercise a bit of caution as the Spring breaks over us.  When that giddy feeling of gleeful mirth starts to bubble up in the chest, these days I tend to go for the brakes.  Usually.  Most of the time.  But Spring Time and adrenaline are so much fun!

That time is coming.  I can hear it whispering, hear it approaching, feel the good Earth starting rouse from slumber.  I wonder what it will bring us this year?

By the way, I have a new mountain bike.

Thursday, February 10, 2011

Thursday Thoughts: Two Quick Ones

Conversation in this blog:  I would be delighted if some of you posted your comments on this blog.  I have it set up so that you can.  Some of you are kind enough to comment when you see me, or to send me email about some point or other.  Why not get the community involved here?

I don’t promise to answer all comments.  Others might chose to do so.  I do “mine” commentary for topics and material.  So how ‘bout it?  Don’t hide your light under a bushel.


Audax Ride:  Ever noticed the name of this blog?  It started out as a communication tool for folks interested in doing the annual ride.  It’s again coming up on time to start preparations for that ride.  (I know!  The ride is in May.  But if you plan to do a 125 miler, you will want to start getting yourself, your bike, and your gear in shape now.)

If you look at the Tour Calendar, to the left, you will note that the first of the Tune Up rides is on 6 March.  That’s just around the corner!  More, the 45 Mile Tune Ups are hilly.  We will be riding them “Audax Style.”  That means the group will stay together, and the pace will be the same as on the actual ride.  It’s a good preparation, and excellent decision making tool.

Give it some thought.

Wednesday, February 9, 2011

Winter Projects ~ Re-String:

A continuing series on winter bike maintenance.

Re-string means to replace all of the cables on the bike.

In our last edition (the post from 19 January)   we covered wrapping your bars.  We did that because a good re-string is going to mean trashing the existing bar tape.

Today we have another “before we get started” post.  Some of you (an increasing number) may have bikes with “through frame” cable routing.  This means that some of the cables are run through the frame of the bicycle, rather than in housing and stops on the outside of the frame.  If that’s the case, you will want to pay special attention to this post.  Below are the instructions for dealing with most through frame cable replacements.

NOTE:  If you have a “through frame” cable routing, read this post, then wait one more week, and catch the re-string post.  The rest of you, please be patient, we’ll do the final on the re-string project next week.

WARINING!!!!  READ THIS FIRST!!!!
Look closely at your bike.  Do any of the cables vanish inside your frame?  If so you are the proud owner of a bike with the dreaded “through frame cable routing.”  If this is the case, you probably should not attempt this re-string yourself.  But if you insist…  Do the following first!
Here is a "through frame" cable emerging from the frame.

1}  Do not disconnect anything!!!

2}  Go and get some suitably stiff tubing, of a small enough diameter to fit inside your frame, but large enough to go over the naked cable.

3}  Go to the end of the cable, the derailler, or rear brake, not the control lever.

The cable pinch bolt on a rear derailler.

A cable tip.  These are crimped onto the end of the cable.

A rear brake, showing the cable attachment.

Cable pinch bolt.

Cable end tip.


Four}  Clip the tip off of the cable, leaving as much cable as you possibly can.  Note:  if your cable end is frayed, just stop right there and take your bike to a competent mechanic.  You are already in deep doo-doo, and you need professional help.  Pay the nice mechanic whatever is asked to get you out of this nasty situation.

5}  Loosen the cable clamp and release the cable.
Here the cable is free (end tip clipped off) and the housing is ready to be removed.


6}  Slide the cable housing (if any) off of the cable.
The housing comes off...




...leaving the cable in place.

7} Start feeding the tubing over the cable housing.  Do this gently.  You do not want to push the cable up inside the frame!
Free end of cable (It's still attached to the control at the other end.) Ready for sleeving.

Starting to slide the sleeving over the cable and into the frame.

8}  when you have a foot or two of tubing fed inside the frame (two is better!) go to the other end of this particular cable, grasp the housing where it enters the frame, and gently pull it out of its stop.  You will see exposed cable going out of the housing and entering the frame.  Expose only an inch or two of this cable.

9}  Now continue sliding the tubing over the cable from the other end.  Keep doing this until the tubing emerges from the frame at the control end.

10}  Now you can relax a bit.  Feed the tubing until you have at least three or four inches exposed at each end.  Then Tape the tubing in place.  (Believe this one! You want to tape the tubing to the frame before you do anything else.  We skipped this step in the illustrations for clarity's sake.)


11}  Now you may carefully withdraw the cable from within the tubing.
Sleeving shown in place (without securing tape).  The cable has already been withdrawn.
12}  Now remove the front section of housing (if any) from the cable.  Remove the cable from the control and replace it with the new one.  Slide the cable through the forward housing.  (We'll cover these steps in more detail next week.)  

13}  Slide the end of the cable into the sleeving.  Be careful not to dislodge the sleeving.  You do not want to lose it inside the frame.


Beginning to feed the new cable into the sleeving and into the frame.

Cable emerges from the sleeving at the rear.
14}  We're going into the home stretch now.  Remove our securing tape from the sleeving, and slide it off of the cable and out of the bike to the rear.

15}  Begin to slide the new housing over the cable, and into the frame of the bike.

New housing about to enter the frame.

16}  Be very careful as you install the new housing.  Again, you do not want to push the cable into the frame and lose it.

17}  Once the housing is in place, you are ready to attach cables and begin the adjustment phase.

One last note:  Some frames do not have the housing run completely through the frame.  In these cases there is an internal stop for the cable housing.  If this is the case, there will be two cable housings, one on the front of the bike, and one on the rear.  The procedure is almost the same as above, but both housing sections will need to be removed and replace.

Next week:  The Re-String

Tuesday, February 8, 2011

Mountain Biking 101: Walk It!

Yes, we call it Mountain Biking.  But the truth is, there is a lot of walking involved.  This is especially true for beginners, and for anyone who is riding an unfamiliar trail.  Please don’t be disconcerted by this.  It’s one of those things.  It passes.  As riders become familiar with the skills required, and become comfortable with a given trail, the amount of walking decreases.

There is an old adage that goes, “If you’re not hiking then you’re not biking!

To that, it should be added, but you’re in the woods, and it beats the snot out of the office or the couch!

Very simply, walk what you’re not sure of.  Walk what you can’t see!  If you are not pretty sure you can “clear” a given obstacle, then dismount and walk your bike over it.  There is no shame attached to prudence.  It doesn’t matter how many cool points you lose by walking.  What does matter is not breaking your silly fool neck.  Remember!  You have to report for work on Monday!  Let caution be your guide.  The cool stuff will come to you, in good season.  But you will have to walk part of the way to get there.

Remember!  A short walk beats a bad crash.

Important!  This one goes for everyone, Beginner and Expert alike.  If you cannot see what is coming, and you do not know what is coming, then dismount!  Walk ahead and check out the terrain.  Know what you are about to get into before you commit to it.

Technique:  (I can hear it.  “Technique!?  For walking?!”  Bear with me, please.)  There are some good techniques.  Remember, you are always sharing the trail.  You may not be aware of riders who are rapidly overtaking you.  So when you are about to stop and dismount, always
Call out a warning, such as “Slowing and stopping!”
Pull to the side of the trail, to allow following riders (or the unexpected oncoming rider) room to pass.
Dismount completely.  Do not try to walk over an obstacle while straddling your bike!
For tough descents and climbs, it’s not a bad idea to prop the bike and then walk forward without it.  Check out the terrain.  Then go back for the bike.

Special Technique for steep descents and climbs:
If you have to walk down a steep section, or climb up it dismounted, there is a good procedure to follow.  Walk beside your bike, with both hands on the controls.  Lean over the bike slightly.  Use the bike’s brakes to control your descent and stabilize you.  (The same tan help you keep your footing on a steep uphill.)

Bonus:
The best way to learn how to get down a tricky descent is to walk it first.  Then go a little faster (still on foot) following the route you plan to use with the bike.  Then do it again, with short, almost running steps.  When you have mastered the section on foot, you will know how to go down it on the bike.

Today’s Term:  Singletrack ~ A path or trail, unpaved, and usually in wooded areas.  Singletrack is generally just wide enough to accommodate one bicycle at a time.

This series, running every Tuesday, is intended to help those who are new to mountain bike riding.  By no means is it an exhaustive treatment, but it is our fond hope that it will help you, the beginner, to begin to enjoy riding your bike off road.

Future Topics:
Reading the trail
Trail Care & Maintenance
Preparations (secure your stuff!!)
Shifting
Dressing for it
Standing and staying loose
Hydration
Track Stand
Bunny Hop
Wheelie