Winter Maintenance: Bearing Check

There are four essential bearings on your bicycle.  They are the front wheel bearing, the rear wheel bearing, the Bottom Bracket, and the headset.  Problems with the wheel bearings or headset bearing can lead to a rather nasty end to a ride.  A problem with the Bottom Bracket bearings can lead to bad shifting, loud noises, and possibly to the bike failing to proceed.  Here’s how to check each of these.

Headset Bearings:

Turn the handles bars from side to side.  Does the fork move smoothly as you do this?  No binds, dragging, or clicking?  Good.

Now place the bike on the ground.  Lock the front brake firmly and push the bike forward and backward gently.  Do you feel a click or clunk?  If so, things need to be investigated.  This could just be an indication that the headset is out of adjustment, or worn.  It could also mean something else.  Either way, get it to a shop.

Wheel Bearings:

With the bike resting on its wheels, grasp the top of each wheel in turn.  Pull gently from side to side.  If there is a clunk or tick as you pull the wheel, that’s it.  Wheel bearings are worn or in need of adjustment.

{This is a good time to do a cursory check of wheel true, and tire wear.  Lift the rear wheel off of the ground and give it a spin forward.  As you do this, sight between the brake surface of the rim and the brake pad.  If you see side to side motion, it’s an indication that truing is needed.  Go over the tire carefully looking for worn spots, tears, and punctures.  Repeat this procedure with the front wheel.}

The next step requires removing the wheels from the bicycle.  After you have done this, pick one wheel up and turn the axel.  Does it move smoothly and freely?  If so good.  If it is tight, difficult to turn, or feels gritty, that bearing needs attention.  Repeat the process with the other wheel.

Bottom Bracket (crank) Bearings:

First grasp both crank arms near the pedals.  Now tug from side to side.  If there is a rocking motion possible, the bottom bracket bearing is in need of attention or replacement.  Note:  If the crank arms can move independently of each other, Stop!  Do not ride the bike.  Take it to a shop and seek professional assistance.  Continuing to ride the bike in this condition can lead to damaged cranks, and really bad falls and injuries.

If your crank has passed the tests so far, do the following with care and caution.

Remove the rear wheel.  Now lift the chain away from the crank.  With the chain out of contact with the crank, give the crank a spin.  Does it move freely and smoothly?  If so good.  If not, attention is needed.

Bearing Lubrication and Adjustment:  In a future post I may cover the process of refreshing and adjustment of a “loose ball” hub.  For now, it is best to leave this work to professionals.

One last bit of advice:  Bearings need to be lubricated.  Please consider how long it’s been since your wheel bearings, crankset, and headset have been serviced.  If it’s been more than a year, likely you should take your bike in for service.  Yes, it’s likely they will keep your bike for a few days.  But the time and expense are well worth it.  Do consider, that unattended hub could cost you the whole wheel.  Besides, a smooth well lubed and well adjusted bike is a joy to ride.