Night Riding Issues:

We’re in it now. It’s dark and getting darker. Today’s sunrise, here in Peachtree City, was at 07:24. Sunset will be at 17:29. That’s about 14 hours of no-Sun. The Winter Solstice is still 19 days away. We won’t have this much daylight for another 38 days. The times may be a little different where you are, but if you are in the northern hemisphere, the effect is much the same.

How does one cope? Indoor trainers, rollers, spin classes, and gym work help to maintain condition and prepare for the better times ahead, but… they don’t do much for the “cabin fever.” Most of us are involved in cycling, at least in part, because we like to get outside! I for one, get seriously crazy if I go more than 48 hours without spending some time outside. I’m also one of those folks who tend to develop SAD if the shades are drawn. (I’ve lived in harsher climates. I didn’t do well there.) The answer, at least in part, to this is to go ahead and ride outside.

But nighttime riding requires some thought. There are two factors to contend with, visibility and cold. We’ll deal with temperature in a future post. For now, let’s concentrate on visibility issues.

Cost/Benefit. An outdoor cyclist starts to feel the “pinch” in mid-September. At that point loss of daylight begins to curtail outside riding. But we tend to have mild weather through the end of October. The “mirror” to this time occurs from mid-February through March. Conditions at that time of the year can be variable, but ride-worthy weather is not uncommon. So a good light set will add about 90 days to one’s yearly calendar. And that is without resorting to a higher cost in technical clothing. An investment in technical weather gear can compliment your lighting and add another potential 100 days to your calendar.

Further, a good light set will, with reasonable care, last for years.

Example: Assume you spend $150.00 on your lights. Assume a four year life span for them. That’s a potential of 360 more ride-able days. Let’s say you only take advantage of half of that, and ride about an hour on each of those days. You have gained 180 hours, at a cost of about $0.83 per hour. Not bad.

Of course, if a savvy rider were to add just a bit of cold weather clothing, even more ride time could be recovered. (Remember, cold weather clothing works in daylight too!)

See and be seen. The visibility issue breaks into two more parts. A rider must be able to see, and to be seen.

To see requires lights… good ones! That sounds obvious, but I am often astonished that folks miss this point. This is not a place to “economize”! Good, solid, bright, weather capable lights are absolutely essential. And yet, I often have the discussion in the shop. Folks literally try to negotiate the need for better lights. Sorry. If you want to see you need a strong light source.

Here’s the principle: Stopping distance should never exceed visibility. That’s simple survival. If you can’t see it in time to avoid it, you must slow down. Walking is pretty slow, even compared to slow cycling. A powerful flashlight makes a pathetic cycling headlight.

Lighting can be divided into roughly three categories. 1) See me, 2) Get me home, and 3) I intend to be out here!

That first category doesn’t require too much, a decent LED or small halogen light will do the trick on the front, and a bright flashing red LED taillight will work for the rear. These things are best used to increase a rider’s visible presence. They are warning lights. They do not help one see one’s way while riding.

The second category is used for two purposes. The first is as an emergency resource for the individual who had no intention of riding after dark. Things can happen. A late day ride, at this time of year, can become a night trip home. A single flat, an unexpected detour, or even a short stop to chat with a friend can put you in the dark. A “Get me home” light is just adequate to ride with, at reduced speed.

The “Intentional Lights” are strong and have long burn times. They work well at speed up to, and in excess of 20 mph. Some are actually brighter than automotive headlights, in a narrow beam. They do cost more.

Incidentally, it takes more lights to ride off-road than on. It’s darker on the trails or mountain biking, and the turns are much tighter. This kind of riding is best done with a combination of two lights, one on the bar, and another on the helmet.

Being seen takes more than lights. Yes, lights are good. Use them. Use lots of them. But the must be augmented by reflective material. Remember, lights work well to the front and rear, but it is essential that you be seen from the sides as well. An absolute minimum would be a reflective vest or sash and reflective ankle bands. Those geeky wheel reflectors are actually a super good idea. Use strips of adhesive reflective material on the bike and clothing.

It’s a good idea to test your visibility set up. Enlist the aid of a friend (preferably a cyclist) in an automobile. Go out at night, in the neighborhood, and ride in front of your “chase car.” Ride both toward and away from the car. Then arrange to ride across the front of the car, as if you were crossing an intersection as they were approaching in the cross street. Get a report from your “chase driver.” Then use the information to improve your setup.