So, it was a much smaller group than we had originally planned. That meant we had to improvise our itinerary a bit. There was more automotive driving than I would have liked, but some superb quality riding was the keynote.
This is a part of the “Funnest Road Ride in Georgia” route. It is an exceptional cycling ride. The scenery is loaded with mountain lake views and spectacular lake front houses. The road is tight and twisty, lots of fun to ride, with little traffic. There wasn’t much climbing on this day, just enough to get the legs working.
Then we had an exceptional dinner at the Dillard House, before turning in. If you haven’t had the pleasure of dining at the Dillard House, you have missed a treat. You fenter the spacious dining room, are seated, and they bring the food. Lots of food. Incredibly delicious food!
As we ate, we were treated to the sun setting over the mountains. Superb.
Day 2: October 2. We drove to Waynesville, N.C. We were able to check into the hotel early, so we were set to ride early in the day. The weather was cloudy and threatening, so we simply explored the Waynesville area. This is a fantastic mountain town nestled in the Cashier range of the Southern Great Smokey Mountains. The terrain is anything but flat. After some riding we rode into town, and dismounted to walk the bikes along the sidewalks and play “tourist.”
That was when we had one of those amazing events that make cycle touring such a wonderful adventure. We were passing a realtor’s office. Jonnie, who ran the office, greeted us. She asked if we’d like to park the bikes in her back room while we walked and shopped. She told us her daughter was, at that moment, doing a tour from Blowing Rock to the coast. Amazing!
After wandering through some of the more interesting shops (do not miss Mast General Store!), and getting a bite to eat at a sidewalk bistro, we retrieved our bikes.
We spent most of the rest of the afternoon riding and exploring west of town. Then we went to Maggie’s Galley for dinner. This is an amazing place. You have to know where it is to find it. It’s built from a collection of rescued primitive log cabins. The atmosphere is kind of funky, but warm and friendly. Odd for a spot in the mountains, Maggie’s Galley serves some incredible seafood. I’m particularly partial to their seafood chowder, and their twice baked potatos.
Day 3: October 3. Still in Waynesville. Since the lack of riders and support drivers forced the change in plans we made the most of it. Waynesville is in the heart of the Cashiers, and is a great location for a base. We chose to ride the infamous “Sunburst Loop.”
Why infamous? I’ve taken a fair number of people on this loop. I’ve usually brought them back drenching wet and hypothermic. This was the day that ended the jinx. The weather was spectacular. Severe clear, with a temp around 48 degrees at ride time. We climbed. Climbing warms you. The sun rose higher as we climbed. It got warmer, and we shed some outer layers. In a run of 17 miles we gained 3,500 feet. At that point we intersected the Blue Ridge Parkway, and turned north.
The seeing was outstanding. We rode to Devil’s Court House, and dismounted to climb the trail up to the overlook on top of the rocks. We were able to see peaks in North Carolina, Georgia, and Tennessee from the top.
A bit past Devil’s Courthouse, the route goes over Richland Balsam, the highest point on the Parkway, at an elevation of 6,047 feet.
After the “Court House” we continued north, past looking glass, Grave Yard Fields, Pigeon Gap, and ultimately to Mount Pisgah. We had a snack at the service area at Mount Pisgah. Then we reversed course. We rode back to the intersection with US-276. The descent down 276 is awe inspiring!
The pizza, stout, and cheesecake at Nick and Nate’s was pretty good too!
Day 4: October 4. This was going to be a big day. We got up early in order to get one more ride in before returning home.
What a ride! We started from Waynesville, and rode south to the saddle of Balsam Gap, climbing all the way. From the Gap we turned onto the Blue Ridge Parkway and south. It’s a steady climb all the way to Water Rock Knob. The section from Balsam Gap to Water Rock Knob is the steepest prolonged grade on the Parkway. It’s about ten miles long, and gains about 3500 feet. The view at Water Rock Knob is amazing. You have a 270 degree panorama of the Smokies laid out before you.
Departing from Water Rock Knob and returning to Waynesville is a treat. It’s 14 miles of uninterrupted descending back to the town. Chilly, but amazing. The Parkway is so well graded and banked that braking is almost unnecessary. The rider just finds that the bike will hold 30 to 35 mph, and will take the turns just fine at those speeds. Not to be missed.
I have to add one more note. Riding on the Blue Ridge Parkway is a treat. The park Rangers, in particular, are great. More than once I’ve had one or another tell me, “We’re proud of our cyclists.” They really make you feel welcome.
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