A “utility/commuter” could be almost anything. I know one local who uses a very high end, triathlon specific, full carbon, Dura Ace equipped, time trial bike to commute. He, quite wisely, throws a set of beater wheels on the bike and rides it to and from work, tossing in 20 or 30 “bonus miles” a couple of times a week. While I would not be comfortable taking a multi-thousand dollar bike into traffic and weather on a near daily basis, it works for him.
I know another gent who routinely rides a total junker, department store clunker. What’s more, he logs a lot of miles on this rig. I’d want a little more efficiency and reliability. But again, it works for him.
Most of us will want to be somewhere between the wonder bike and the “collection of parts traveling in loose formation.” Here’s some suggestions for your consideration.
Frame First: Pick a frame that fits you! And make sure it will be tough enough to stand up to your particular riding conditions. For some this could be an ancient “Schwine,” or a brand new entry level road bike, or a “sport hybrid,” or a mountain bike. But the frame is the heart of it. The frame needs to be strong, in good condition, and weather resistant. (More on that last in a moment.)
Generally, a more relaxed riding position is better here. If you are sitting more upright, your ability to see and be seen in traffic is enhanced. Besides, this isn’t a bike for “epic” rides, it’s a grocery-getter! A straight handle bar type bike is great for this stuff. It could be a mountain bike, a hybrid, or a more relaxed entry level type road frame. But make sure it has lots of “brazons” or “eyelets” for accessories. Incidentally, the bicycle industry now offers a “fitness bike” such as Giant’s Rapid or Dash. These would be extremely well suited to this kind of use. For that matter, an entry level cyclocross bike would be a great choice too.
Wheels: Super light, exotic wheels are all well and good, but for daily “beater” use, more conventional rolling stock makes more sense. Good, solid, dependable, conventionally spoked wheels will last a long time, be dependable, and are readily repairable. If your target bike doesn’t have this going for it, expect to spend around $250 to $300 for a good set. Don’t skimp here!
How do you “dress” the wheels? First off, spring for really good, high quality cotton adhesive rim strips. The cost difference is about $3.00 per wheel. The benefit is that you can run higher pressure tires with a fewer flats. (Make that a whole lot fewer flats!) Tires depend on the wheel size, which depends on the frame. If you are using 26” wheels, go with the thinner, higher priced, slicks. I’m particularly partial to Panaracer’s RibMo or T-Serv. Both can be had in a 1.25 inch width. They are tough and efficient, and they last.
If you’re using a 700c wheel, I’d use the widest tire that your particular frame will accommodate. (Of course you want to consider fenders. More on that soon too!) For heavy usage, I prefer at least a 700 X 25, but some road frames will handle up to a 700 X 32, as will almost all hybrids. The bigger tire is more comfortable, and puts more rubber on the road, hence better traction, and better load handling capability.
Components: A fairly common strategy is “great brakes and low end driveline.” Stopping and controlling turns is far more important than smooth flawless shifting. Besides, lower end drive lines may not always work as precisely and smoothly as the nicer stuff, but they are often a good bit more weather tolerant, and more forgiving of less than perfect maintenance. (I’m talking the lower end of bike shop grade here, not department store junk.) On the other hand, really good brakes don’t cost a lot more than low end ones, and they work much better.
Incidentally, a single speed, or “fixie” works real well for this stuff. There’s a lot less to go wrong with it, it provides a really nice workout factor, and often it lightens the bike up wonderfully.
Saddles, bars, grips: Chose these to work with the frame. Pick a saddle that will weather well, but that fits you, and is suitable to the position your frame puts you in. Bars and grips should be chosen with the same criteria in mind. Comfort and durability, not speed.
Accessories: Consider racks and bags. After all, if it’s a grocery-getter and errand runner, it should be able to haul stuff.
Fenders greatly improve the ability to ride in adverse conditions. They help to keep you and the bike cleaner and drier.
Lights make sense if you do errands during the early morning, or in the evening. Reflectors!!!!! A bell is a great idea.
Pedals just might be flats. After all, the idea is to have a bike that can be put to use with little or no notice. If you can’t always store the bike inside, you might consider a decent lock. It can go in your panniers or messenger bag when not in use.
Frame Weather Proofing: Weather proofing your utility bike frame depends a lot on what the frame material is, and the extent to which you will expose it to weather.
Aluminum frames don’t need much in the way weather proofing. Exposed aluminum develops a “patina” of surface corrosion, which then stops the process. However, aluminum in contact with other metals, such as the steel of a bottom bracket, can develop electrolytic corrosion. If your aluminum bike is exposed to a lot of wet weather, make sure it is cleaned and lubricated regularly. Either learn to remove and grease steel parts yourself, or pay to have this work done on a regular basis.
Steel frames are often amazing. They don’t tend to have electrolytic issues. However, exposed steel will rust, and rust is not self-limiting. It keeps going until the frame is weakened and destroyed. There are two issues to address in corrosion proofing a steel frame, internal corrosion, and external.
Internal corrosion. This occurs when water enters the frame during heavy rain riding, or from condensation. A frame can gradually rust from the inside out, and then fail. Prevention takes the form of two different actions. If the frame is ridden in heavy rain, remove the seatpost, and hang the bike upside down to allow it to drain. Store the bike in a dry place and allow it to dry out thoroughly. Heating the frame gently with a blow drier is a good way to drive moisture out. (Be sure to keep heat away from rubber and plastic parts of the bike!)
The second action is to introduce an anti-corrosive into the inside of the frame on a periodic basis. My favorite is to use about a half a bottle of T-9 Boeshield inside the frame every six months. Pour the T-9 into the main frame, and into the stays through the welding vent holes. Turn the frame as the T-9 is dripped into it. The idea is to spread the liquid anti-corrosive thoroughly inside the frame. About once every week or two go through a procedure of turning the frame upside down, and on each side to re-apply the T-9, which otherwise pools in the bottom of the frame.
Every six months, remove wheels and accessories, then rinse the interior of the frame out with a good solvent, such as kerosene, or turpentine. Allow to dry completely, and then re-apply T-9 to the interior.
External corrosion. Dealing with external corrosion is simple, but not always easy. Wipe the bike down regularly. Keep it clean. If the finish is scratched or chipped, sand the area immediately around the exposed metal and apply a touch up paint. It isn’t necessary to make this an esthetically pleasing job, but it is imperative that there is an air tight finish over the exposed area. I will often touch up paint a scratch or chip, allow the paint to a dry, and then apply a sticker over the touch up. This serves to hide the touch up, and to further seal the area.
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