SHIFTING (AGAIN!)
A Guide for Beginner (and Experienced!) Cyclists, to the Art and Practice of Cycling. Becoming Proficient, Fit, and Happy on your bike.
A Guide for Beginner (and Experienced!) Cyclists, to the Art and Practice of Cycling. Becoming Proficient, Fit, and Happy on your bike.
By this point in your cycling career you’ve probably
figured out (in a general way) which of your shifters does what, how to make it
harder, and how to make it easier.
Likely you are still getting a bit of frustration about being in the
“right” gear. You’ve had a chance
to experience just how good modern drivetrains are, but likely you’ve also
noticed that they can be a bit touchy too. Now it’s time to refine
your approach to shifting.
Riding a bike is often a balancing act between
legs and lungs. One of the two is
often suffering. A general rule is
to shift to move the work from cardio to muscular, or vice versa. If your lungs are burning and your
heart is racing, but your legs are not on fire, go to a bit higher gear, transfer the load to the
legs a bit. Let the bike slow
some, and recover.
On the other hand, if you are breathing
easily, and your legs are on fire with that nice lactate burn, shift down to an easier gear, let your legs
spin up. They will recover fairly
quickly, and you will take a bit more of a cardio load.
Technique:
Now is a good time to slow down and pay a
little attention to your shifting procedures. Get smooth now,
and it will pay you dividends later.
(Remember! Smooth is fast.)
Devote a couple of rides each week to
practicing shifting technique.
This is best done on your slow, or recovery rides.
In the beginning you were told that you needed
to be pedaling when you shift.
You’ve figured that out by now.
But there may still be a bit of a problem. Likely you are doing one of two things (and maybe both) that
have a negative effect on your driveline performance.
Shifting Under a Load:
We always tell new riders to “pedal while you
shift.” Unfortunately, new riders
often hear this as “Make mighty power by pedaling really really hard whild you shift!” NO! What we are actually saying is, “Let the bike coast, completely ease the pressure on your
driveline, and be turning it over lightly while you shift.”
Here’s how to practice this technique: Go out and find a nice flat stretch of
road. Get the bike up to a moderate
speed. Now, let it coast, but turn
the pedals easily and make a shift in either up or down. Do this while keeping the pedals moving, but with no pressure on them.
See? Isn’t this much
smoother?
At first, you will have to concentrate to let the bike go into
coasting mode, then make the shift, and then resume power. But with practice you will learn how to
“unload” your driveline for only a moment, during the shift.
Remember! Practice makes
perfect. Do this drill a lot!
Shifting with too little Driveline speed:
This one is a little bit the opposite of the
scenario discussed above. The
rider lets the bike coast (maybe) but turns the cranks very slowly through the
shift. The chain has a tendency to
rattle and resist the shifting motion.
To fix this, concentrate on turning the cranks
more rapidly, but not with more
power. In other words, very little
effort should be applied to the cranks, but the cranks should be turning over
briskly. Shift while the bike is
coasting, but spin the pedals. And once again, Practice!
The Big-Ring Bobble:
New riders (and many more experience ones!)
often see making a change of chainrings
as a big challenge. (“Chainrings”
are the big gears at the front of the bike.) All of the techniques discussed above apply, but there is
one added consideration. That is
the concept of a “Recovery Shift.”
Usually the difference between one chainring
and the next is equivalent to about two, or two and a half, of the gears on the
back of the bike. This is quite
intentional. Consider, if you
shift from a smaller ring to a bigger one, you have made an effective shift of
two gears. If you then downshift at the back, your net upshift is just one ratio, and you now have one more gear available for upshifting
at the back of the bike.
Conversely, if you shift from a bigger ring to
a smaller one, you have made an effective two ratio downshift. If you then shift up one gear at the back the net is just a one ratio change, and you
have one more gear available for down shifting.
Those two scenarios describe the concept of a
“Recovery Shift.” Here’s how it
works. You are working a bit too
hard. You look ahead and see that
the hill is going to continue, so you know
you are going to need more of the lower gears. You are in the big ring on the front. It’s time to shift to the smaller
ring. But if you do that, you will
have shifted to a gear that is a bit too
easy. So you make the big ring
down shift, and then recover by
shifting up one gear on the
back. Likewise, if you are
accelerating, and going to harder gears, you will find that the shift to a
bigger ring is likely one gear too hard.
You recover by shifting the
back down one gear.
Okay, that’s the theory. Go out and practice it and then come
back and try the next bit.
The “Secret” of Smooth
Chainring Changes:
Shift the back
first!!
When you need to make a chainring downshift,
first downshift the back one gear, then
downshift the chainring, then recover
upshift the back one or two gears.
This “unloads” the driveline and allows the shift of the chainrings to
be much smoother.
When you need to make a chainring upshift,
first downshift the back one gear, then
upshift the chainring. This puts
the “recovery shift” before the
chainring shift, but it “unloads” the driveline and allows you to spin the pedals and assist an easy front
upshift.
Believe me when I say, “This takes practice!” And.. “It is well worth the effort!”
Now go have some fun learning to operate your
driveline more smoothly and effectively.
Next Week: Hills (fat guy fallacy)
~//~
This series
began with the post on Tuesday, 19 June 2012. It is intended to continue for three years. Each week, we will discuss exercises,
skills, practices, and activities designed to bring the new (or “experienced”)
rider a high level of cycling competence.
We’ll address common problems, and (always)
stress safe practice.
~//~
A Note on Timing: This series uses Mid-June as the
starting point of the “Cyclists Year.”
We do this because this is the time that most folks decide to start
riding. If you are following this
guide, you can “adjust” the timing to fit your personal “first three
years.” Do note that some of the
posts will concern weather and seasonal changes. When that starts to happen, just swap the “months” around to
fit your personal timeline.