The mechanical technical aspects of our pastime are, to some of you fascinating. To others, what follows will be as dull as ditch-water and dry as stale toast. If you are not one of those who find intriguing the "greasy bits," then please do feel free to skip today's offering. Tune in tomorrow for fare that is less mechanistic and more lively. Thank you ~ your most humble etc.
We mentioned recently that we would be doing more follow-up
reporting on some of our equipment projects. We also dropped a few hints about a newer “secret” project. Today the curtain goes up, with mixed
results.
The following bit is a touch technical. If you want to skip that, feel free to
drop on down to “Conclusions” and “Riding Impressions” at the bottom of
each of these project reports.
PROJECT X: Modifying Shimano Groups for Super
Low Road Gearing
Background:
It seems to us that Shimano have a definite opinion about
gearing. This has been a source of
frustration with us for many years.
The wonderful folks at the redoubtable Japanese component maker have
very strong feelings about how low a
road gear-set should be. For the
longest time the lowest “authorized”
Gearing was on a “road double” driveline, with a low gear combination of 39 X
27. That yields a ratio of just
under 1.5:1. That’s okay if one is
riding in the flats, or climbing the occasional hill. It seems to work well for young racers. But for those of us who have older
knees, or weigh a bit more, or wish to climb much taller things on a regular basis,
it’s just not adequate.
Eventually, Shimano (grudgingly, it seemed) introduced road “triples.” (A lot of us were already adapting
mountain triples for use on our road bikes.) That was a little better. Now we had a low combination of 30 X 27, yielding a bit over
a 1.11:1 final. Better, but many
of us wanted more. And besides,
triples are heavier, more complicated, and less reliable.
During the 9-Speed
Era it was possible to do some interesting things. At that time, components from both road
and mountain groups could be mixed and work well together. This led to some interesting possibilities. For instance, a road double of the
53-39 type could be paired up with a 34-11 cassette and a mountain rear
derailler. That gave a huge high gear of 4.82:1, and a low of
1.5:1. That’s a very adequate
high. The low leaves a bit to be
desired.
The road triple, combined with the same rear treatment,
resulted in 27 possible combinations from a low of 0.88:1 up to a high of
4.73:1. That’s some serious range!
All that ended with the advent of the 10-Speed Groups.
Mountain gearing was restricted to 9-Speed, and the 10-Speed road groups
were completely incompatible. The
advent of the compact cranks helped some, but not enough. For those of us desiring truly low
“digger” climbing gears, or the gearing for hauling heavy loads up hills, the
road groups were out of the question.
That Brings us to
NOW:
Thanks to some stiff competition from another component
maker, Shimano has recently introduced 10-speed mountain groups! Ah
ha! We thought that it just might be possible to again combine the
mountain stuff with the road and yield wonderful results. Alas, this turns out not to be the
case.
Shimano has deliberately engineered the crucial mountain
rear derailler to be completely incompatible with the road shifters. The “pull ratios” needed to activate the
deraillers are quite different.
That means road levers just will not
operate the new 10-speed mountain deraillers. There may yet be a way around this, and research is on going,
but as of this writing the two are incompatible.
We wouldn’t want to give the impression that Shimano are
prosecuting some vendetta against us.
There are sound engineering reasons for the incompatibility. But the fact remains, the road shifters
just do not work with the mountain deraillers, and the road groups do not allow
the sub 1:1 low ranges we desire.
Conclusion:
As of this writing, it is just not possible to combine Shimano’s 10-Speed road and mountain equipment to yield super low gearing and usable highs from the same driveline. This project is on going, and we’ll post more news and results as we have them.
As of this writing, it is just not possible to combine Shimano’s 10-Speed road and mountain equipment to yield super low gearing and usable highs from the same driveline. This project is on going, and we’ll post more news and results as we have them.
~~//~~
PROJECT SRAM APEX
“WiFli”: Super Wide Road Gearing
Possibly some of you will remember references we made to
testing the SRAM Apex component
group. Apex is SRAM’s entry level road group. For our money it performs right up
there with Shimano’s vaunted 105 level of components. But wait there’s
more!
SRAM has, quite deliberately, taken pains to integrate their products and to actually promote
cross-group compatibility. That
means that absolutely anything in any
of their road groups will work with the stuff in another road group. Apex, Rival, Force, and even the top of
the line Red group are completely cross-compatible. Now that’s cool! (But wait! There’s still more!)
All of SRAM’s 10-Speed road equipment is completely
compatible with their 10-Speed mountain groups. (Say what?) Yes, SRAM’s 10-Speed road shifters will
operate their 10-Speed mountain deraillers, across any of their 10-Speed
cassettes! Yowza!
We evolved a pretty good setup. There was a bit of trial and error to match things up so
that they would produce exactly the
desired result. Here’s the current
state.
Brakes: SRAM Apex
Shifter/Brake Levers:
SRAM Apex
Front Derailler: SRAM Rival
Rear Derailler: SRAM
X7
Crankset: SRAM Apex Compact 50-34
Cassette: SRAM PG 1030 11-36
Chain: SRAM PC 1071
Changes from a
complete Apex Group:
First off, we substituted the Rival front derailler for the
Apex unit. This was done to
achieve a bit smoother, lower effort front shifting.
We choose the PG 1030 cassette in order to avail ourselves
of the widest possible gear range, with the lowest possible low gear.
The Apex WiFli
rear derailler was capable of handling the huge low gear, but only just
barely. On some bikes, with
shorter stays, or somewhat more aggressive hanger positioning, there are
problems with this setup. The WiFli unit is an SG, or medium long
cage derailler. We found that rear
shifting improved dramatically when we substituted the X7 SGS, long cage unit in.
Riding Impressions
and Conclusions
Six month riding
impressions:
We’ve used the basic Apex set for about two months, and then
made the above-mentioned modifications.
Over the entire six month period we have had very little to complain
about. The initial setup of the
SRAM driveline is very precise and procedural. It should be noted that there is a bit more
post-installation adjustment required than with Shimano equipment. However, once this initial dial-in
process is complete (usually in a couple of weeks to about a month and a half,
depending on volume of use) the equipment performs flawlessly.
The adaptation part is simply getting used to using one lever to operate both up and down
shifts. For users who are new to
road bikes this is a non-issue.
For those with experience and habits formed by Shimano or Campy, the
adaptation usually takes about a week.
After that it’s as natural as walking.
NOTE: We routinely switch between bikes
equipped with Campy, Shimano, or SRAM systems, as well as singlespeeds or
fixies. There’s always a moment or
two of confusion, and then the brain just goes, “OH! Right!”
and no further thought is needed or given. That said, it did
require about a week to become fully comfortable with the DoubleTap controls.
Additional note:
The SRAM equipment does work in a very different fashion.
Riders who are accustomed to Shimano or Campagnolo will find that there
is a bit of adaptation necessary in switching to SRAM’s Double Tap ™ system.
There is also a bit of different technique required.
Some folks may find that the addition of SRAM’s Chain Spotter ™ is well worth the
additional cost of approximately $35.
And for anyone who is
operating this equipment on a carbon fiber frame, I’d say this is a must have!
It should be noted; one particular bit of technique is required for good
riding. When upshifting from the small chainring to the large, it is best to
make one’s recovery downshift at the
rear first, and then effect the
upshift while spinning the “unloaded”
chainring.
Conclusion: The SRAM setup (especially with their WiFli™ options) may be for you IF…
·
You are frustrated with a driveline that does
not give you a low enough low.
·
If you are a “spinner” and like lower ranges for
climbing.
·
If you do a lot of mountain work.
·
If you want to build up a “mountain specific”
bike.
·
If you just have some older knees and want to
save them a little longer, and you just don’t care how long it takes to get to the top, as long as you are not
walking before you get there.
·
If you are building up a utility bike, a
commuter, or a tourist, and want to avoid the complexity of a triple while
still developing the widest possible gear ranges.
The stuff works, and it works well. Once dialed and
adapted to, it is precise and reliable.
It contains possibilities for amazing performance.